Most sewers have favorite cutting tools: a preferred pair of shears, a particular brand of rotary cutter, a special pair of thread nips. For cutting cloth, some sewers swear by rotary cutters; others are convinced that scissors are the only way to go. With experience, you will probably become partial to certain cutting tools and cutting methods. All it takes is a little experimentation.

What’s important is to achieve a clean, accurate cut.  How you get it will depend on personal preference and other factors such as the strength in your hands, your fine motor skills, and your eye-hand coordination. I feel like I’m “all thumbs” with a rotary cutter in my hand; but give me my favorite shears, and I’m fast and precise. Yet I’ve watched other sewers who are rotary cutter magicians. So if you’re new to sewing, practice with a few of the different tools until you find your perfect fit.

Brands of cutting tools vary a great deal. Investing in your cutting tools is always cost effective over the long run. Working with a poor-quality cutting tool is aggravating to say the least – but it also takes a toll on your hand, and there’s a good chance you won’t get as accurate a cut. Scissors are either forged or stamped in the manufacturing process; forged scissors are generally a better quality tool (and more expensive). Some scissors have cushioned finger rings, some are especially lightweight, and some have one blade that is a ground knife-edge.

Take care of your cutting tools. Dropping your shears on the floor will almost certainly throw them out of alignment, and besides being potentially dangerous, the impact can also break the tips. Designate your fabric scissors to just cutting cloth, thread, ribbon, other items made of fiber, and soft pattern tissue paper. Many sewers relegate an “old”  or less expensive pair of scissors for cutting regular paper, sequined or beaded fabric, zipper coils, thick cording, and the like.

Keep your cutting tools sharp. When you notice that you aren’t getting as clean a cut or your hand tires more easily, it’s probably time to get your scissors sharpened or replace your rotary cutter blade. Many sewing machine and fabric stores offer sharpening service for scissors, and at least one quality brand of scissors will totally refurbish your scissors for a nominal fee if you send them back to the company. There are also different types of sharpening tools you can purchase to do it yourself. People who like to use scissors and sew a lot find it helpful to have more than one pair of shears, so that the sharpest pair is used on fine fabrics. Rotary blades can also be sharpened, but it’s a good idea to keep replacement blades on hand. As with scissors, brands of rotary cutter blades vary in quality, so try out a few until you find a brand you like.

SCISSORS

Dressmakers’ Shears.  Shears are available in different lengths, from 6” up to 12” (overall length), and most sewers find that either 7” or 8” shears fit the hand nicely. Nearly all shears are now bent handle, i.e., the handle sits almost entirely to one side of the blades, which allows more of the blade to lie flush with the cutting surface. Left-handed shears are available in a limited range of lengths.

Micro-Serrated Shears. The micro-serration on these shears helps to “grab” the fabric as you cut, especially helpful when cutting slippery and very fine fabrics.

Embroidery Scissors. These 3-1/2” to 4” scissors are convenient for cutting thread ends whether you’re at the machine or doing hand work of all kinds, as well as other small cutting jobs. Some are available with large finger rings; some are beautifully decorative or engraved.

Thread Nips and Clippers. Unlike scissors, you just squeeze this type of clipper together for the cutting action. Some are spring loaded, and some are a curved piece of metal with blades at the ends.

Pinking Shears. These shears cut in a wave or zigzag pattern, which can sometimes eliminate the need for finishing off seam allowances in other manners.

Appliqué Scissors. The half-moon shape on one blade makes it easy to cut away a single layer of cloth in appliqué work, or just one layer of a seam allowance. Sometimes referred to as a “duck-billed” scissors.

Spring-loaded Shears. For people with arthritis and other hand problems, these shears can make a big difference: the spring-loaded blades pop back open after every cut.

Electric Scissors. Like spring-loaded shears, electric scissors can offer a cutting solution for sewers with hand problems. Many now have ergonomically designed handles and a rechargeable battery. Some models are also available with a “shoe” blade that’s handy for various techniques like creating chenille from fabric layers.

ROTARY CUTTERS & EQUIPMENT

Rotary Cutters. Rotary cutters come in a variety of diameters: from small 18mm to extra large 65mm. All have safety features so the tool can be stored without having the blade exposed. Some have straight handles, others have cushioned handles, and still others have ergonomically designed handles.

Replacement Blades. Blades are easily changed on rotary cutters. Some sewers prefer one brand over another. Pinking blades and wavy blades are also available.

Cutting Mats. All sorts of mats are available for use with a rotary cutter: there’s an assortment of sizes and shapes; some can be rolled up; some have “self-healing” surfaces; some have a printed grid; and some are slotted for cutting perfect bias strips.

CUTTING TIPS

Work at a table that’s a good height.  Bending over a dining room table can cause a lot of strain on your back, especially if it’s a big project to cut out. Many sewers prefer higher cutting tables, which can be purchased from sewing catalogs. Kitchen counters can be a more convenient height. And in a pinch, you can elevate your dining table with bed extenders or cafeteria-sized canned goods.

Pinning a pattern to the fabric. Before cutting out a pattern, it’s important that the pattern tissue and fabric are held together well. Traditionally, pins are used to secure the pattern to the fabric, and there are all kinds of pins available: long, short, very fine, heavy weight, glass heads, and plastic heads. With some experimentation, you’ll find the ones that are easiest for you to use. A word of caution: if you will be pressing your garment during construction with pins in the fabric, only use glass head pins – the plastic heads can melt.

Using pattern weights.Some sewers are partial to pattern weights to hold the pattern tissue and fabric together. There are all kinds of weights available, from plastic covered “donuts” to fabric “worms.”  Using pattern weights is undoubtedly faster than pinning, but the pattern tissue and fabric are not held together as uniformly and thoroughly as when pins are used. As with any “which is better” sewing issue, base your decision on the results you want to achieve with each project you’re working on.

Safety when using cutting tools. Scissors and rotary cutters are both extremely sharp. Be mindful of your own safety, and use special caution when children are nearby. Always close your scissors before laying them down – don’t leave the blades yawning open. And always engage the protective cover on a rotary cutter before setting it down.