Ageing - Part of the finishing process in printing fabrics. After the cloth has been printed, it is dried. To make the design color-fast, the cloth is then aged by neutral or acid steaming, or "cured" by dry heat to develop and fix the colors.
Appliques - Fabric shapes or motifs that are sewn onto another fabric for extra dimension or interest. True applique is a real art that requires precise cutting and sewing. Fusible web makes the applique process easier-- see FUSIBLE WEB for more details. Appliques can be purchased or you can make your own by cutting out motifs from your favorite fabrics.
Backing - The fabric used for the "back" of a finished quilt or quilted garment. The backing of quilts today are sometimes as interesting as the quilt front! Depending on the size of your quilt, some backing fabrics must be pieced together so that they will be wide enough to cover the entire back.
Basting - The technique used to hold your fabric temporarily in place. Basting can be accomplished by using straight pins, safety pins (for quilts), or hand/machine sewing, using very large stitches that can be easily removed later.
Batting - The "stuffing" material used for quilting projects. There are various kinds of batting available of both synthetic and natural fibers. The type of batting to choose depends on your project. For wall quilts, for instance, a thin cotton batting is best. For fluffy bed quilts, choose a "higher loft" batting.
Bias - Most fabrics are woven, and have yarn that goes both crosswise and lengthwise. See diagram to the left. Bias is a diagonal direction. True bias occurs when the fabric is folded and the lengthwise and crosswise grains match. Items are sewn "on the bias" when stretch is required.
Bias Tape - Folded strips of fabric that can be bought by the yard, (or you can make your own in the fabric of your choice). Bias Tape is used for curved necklines, hems, around the edges of place mats and for finishing the edges of other projects.
Binding - 1. Used in both sewing and quilting as a means of finishing raw edges. 2. The fabric used to finish the outside edges of your quilt.
Birdseye -A pattern of small diamond shapes, each diamond having a center dot, usually woven into cotton.
Blend - A combination of fabrics, such as polyester-and-cotton. Labels usually indicate what percentage of each fiber comprises the fabric.
Blind Stitch -A sewing stitch used when you do not wish the stitches to be seen. This is accomplished by picking up only one thread at a time.
Blocks - most quilts are based on a series of blocks or squares that are sewn together. (Within those blocks may be triangles, appliques, etc..)
Border Prints -See illustration at right. Single border prints are great for window treatments and apparel. Double border prints will be perfect for tabletop accessories.
Broadcloth - Closely woven fabric with very small crosswise ribs.
Brocade - Woven fabric with a rich, raised, embossed look.
Carding - Part of the fabric- making process. Cotton fibers are separated, impurities are removed, and fibers are brought back together as a strand.
Channel Quilting - Rows of straight stitching that run parallel to each other. Usually done by machine.
Chintz - Cotton treated with a glaze, for a rich lustrous finish. At Cranston we call this a "Cransheen finish"
Craft Panel - A yard or half-yard panel with a craft project and instructions printed directly on the fabric.
Double-Faced - A fabric that can be used on either side. VIP often offers "double-faced" quilted fabric-- great for baby quilts, wall hangings, travel bags, etc..
Echo Quilting - Rows of stitches around a shape, that emphasize the shape or motif.
Engraving - Before printing designs on fabrics, the designs must be "engraved" on a circular screen. Each color has it's own screen.
Fabric Construction - How a fabric is woven (the number of fibers and their relationship). For instance, Cranston often uses a heavier construction (weight) fabric for craft panels. These heavier goods are made with heavier yarns (20 singles) at 60 yarns per inch in each direction, and are labeled "60x60."
Felt - Non-woven fabric, made by processing a mat of fibers with heat, moisture and pressure. Very popular for folk-art projects.
Filling - Fabric is usually created by strands that are woven together. The yarn that goes crosswise is called filling, or "Weft".
Foulard -See illustration at right. This type of pattern is often seen in mens wear--ties and accessories-- but is also great for quilts.
Fusible - Interfacing or web that can be ironed on. Fusible web has revolutionized applique work, sewing and quilting. This is how it works: Paper is treated with adhesive on one side. The paper is ironed onto the fabric with a dry iron, the adhesive side on the wrong side of the fabric. The motif or area you wish to feature is then cut out. The adhesive is now on the wrong side of the fabric--just iron on the motif to the desired area.There is also fusible web for hemming, and various weights for different projects. Using fusible web for applique work requires one additional step--the edges need to be finished off with a satin stitch or fabric paint to prevent raveling.
Grain line - Woven fabric consists of crosswise and lengthwise threads. The direction in which those threads run is known as "grain".
Greige Goods - Raw fabric, before it is bleached and processed.
Hand - The feel or drape of a fabric.
Homespun - Originally, these fabrics were woven by hand, and had a loose weave and rough hand. Now, this term is also used for other fabrics that imitate the homespun look.
Loom - The equipment on which fabric is woven
Mercerizing - One of the possible steps in "preparing" raw fabrics or yarns. The fibers are treated with a caustic soda solution, which makes the fabric stronger and the colors brighter.
Metallic Screen Print - Fabric which has metallic ink as part of its design.
Nap - The slightly raised finish on fabrics that produces a very soft hand. If you run your hand over a fabric, and the fibers follow, the fabric is "napped".
Needles - There is a specific needle for almost every type of project, and its good idea to keep extra supplies on hand.. Most commonly used are "sharps"-- medium length needles for general sewing. Other needles you might consider are : "betweens" which are shorter than sharps and recommended for small quilting stitches. If you are a crafter, there are extra long needles for doll making and other crafts.
Ombre - Usually a multicolored stripe, with colors graduating from light to dark.
Outline Quilting - A single stitch line around a shape or motif, used to give it a quilted look and added dimension.
Paisley - A intricate and beautiful pattern of swirls originating in India.
Patchwork - Uses a combination of many different fabrics sewn together and most often quilted.
Pinking Shears - Shears with a zig-zag edge. Pinking shears were often used to finish off seams (zig zag edge prevents raveling), before sergers and other equipment were available. Pinking shears are enjoying a comeback right now, as "homespun" or "Folk Art" looks often call for an unsewn, finished edge. The pinking shears are perfect for this type of project.
Poplin - Heavier cotton weave, with slight rib running from selvedge to selvedge.
Pressing - If you are intending to seriously sew and/or quilt, a good quality iron is an essential investment. Many of your projects will require that you press seams as you sew, to ensure that they lay flat. The better your iron, the less tedious this process will become!
Quilting - A fabric "sandwich" sewn together by hand or machine. The "bread" is usually 100% cotton; the "filling" is batting.
Quilting Stitch - A fabric "Sandwich" sewn together by hand or machine. The "bread" is usually 100% cotton; the "filling" is batting.
Repeat - The distance before a motif or design repeats itself, or begins again. Craft panels or pillow panels are said to have a 18" or 36" repeat, because that's where each panel begins or ends.
Rotary Cutters - Round blade utensil for cutting, essential for modern sewers or quilters, because rotary cutters cut many layers at once.
Running Stitch - Large loose stitch sometimes used for basting. Often used in a decorative way for folk art looks, when stitching is part of the design.
Sanforizing - A finishing step in fabric finishing, where fabric is pre-shrunk, so that it will not shrink again after washing.
Sashing - The term used to describe the strips of fabric that surround or frame each quilt lock.
Satin Stitch - Satin stitch is usually done by machine, and is a popular stitch to finish off the edges of appliques.
Scissors - How many do you need to start? Three is a good number - one dressmakers shears, one tiny sharp scissors for applique and cutwork and one scissor for paper work and paper pattern cutouts.
Seam Binding - Usually a pre-packaged trim used to enclose seams for a neat, finished look.
Seam Gauge - A useful little ruler with a sliding marker. Helps measure seams, button hole openings, etc.
Seam Ripper - The mistake fixer, this little utensil has a sharp point that makes removing stitches easier.
Selvege (or Selvedge) - The finished edges of a woven fabric-- you'll find the manufacturer's name and other information on the selvedge.
Seams - When sewing two pieces of fabric together, a seam is created. For dressmaking and apparel, it is customary to sew 5/8" in from the edge of the fabric. (This is your "seam line"). For quilters, where seams must lie flat, the customary seam allowance is 1/4".
Sewing gauges - A useful little ruler used to measure the size of a stitch, or the distance between a sewing machine needle and the needle plate.
Sewing Stitches - A visual survey of sewing stitches is on it's way.
Singe/Bleach - In olden days, grey cloth was bleached in a primitive manner. It was laid out in a meadow to let sun and water bleach it. The cloth gradually became white, but not the beautiful white of today. Today, the whitening process begins with the cloth passing over a gas flame. This burns the fuzz off both the face and back of the cloth. The cloth is then treated with various solutions to remove natural impurities and bleached.
Soaping - After mercerizing or other treatments, printed cloth is washed continuously to remove excess color, chemicals and other impurities.
Straightening - Cranston has a comprehensive program to ensure that its fabrics are straight. One way of straightening fabric at home is to grasp the opposite ends of the fabric and pull it in the directions that require straightening. You will be pulling on the diagonal or bias grain of the fabric. Continue pulling the fabric while working your hands down (or up) the selvedges until the desired results are achieved.
Stitch in the Ditch - A technique used in quilting, especially good for beginners. The quilter uses the seams as a guide, and quilts directly in the seam.
Templates - Pattern pieces used to cut out fabric for quilting and applique. Templates can be made of paper, cardboard or special plastic template materials. Depending on which type of template you use, rotary cutters may be used to cut the actual fabrics.
Threads - There are a whole variety of threads available! Depending on your project, you may choose from polyester, cotton or metallic threads. Although cotton fabric is the choice for quilters choose a cotton-poly blend thread for quilting, because it does not shrink or pucker as much as pure cotton thread. It is also generally stronger and does not break as easily.
Thread Clips - A little scissor-type utensil that can cut threads as you sew.
ZigZag Stitch - If a zigzag stitch is done close together, it becomes a satin stitch -The perfect finishing touch for appliques!
